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Oceanside, CA

(760) 716-5425

essica Varela is a San Diego based makeup artist with more than 11 years experience creating looks for weddings, special occasions, print, the runway, and television. 


​Jessica Varela's blog is a lot about makeup and a little about more!

How Eye Shape and Eye Shadow Relate

Jessica Varela


When I tell people I’m a makeup artist, more often than not, they point to their eyes and ask, “How should I be doing my eyes?” There is not one right answer to that question - many women can wear shadow many ways.

That said, knowing what your eye shape is will help you create a look that best complements your peepers. Think of your eye shape as your map - a guide to getting you to your destination: flattering, flirty eyes.

Eyes come in many different shapes and sizes, but the most common shapes are: deep set eyes, prominent eyes, shallow eyes, hooded eyes, and almond eyes.

Deep set eyes sit further back into the face, which places a lot of emphasis on the brow bone. To “bring forward” deep set eyes, dust a light colored shadow like MAC's Shroom over the entire lid. Next, wash a medium toned shadow just above the crease towards the brow. Stay away from dark colored shadow in the crease. You don't want to darken natural shadows.

Prominent eyes have lots of lid space and an almost bulging appearance. To downplay a prominent eye, brush a dark shadow like NARS Bali all over the lid and blend into the crease. Dark tones recede space and size, so don’t be afraid to apply eyeliner generously along the lash line.



Shallow eyes have almost no crease, which makes the brow bone less prominent. To give a shallow eye more definition, apply a dark shadow along the lash line and blend up onto lid. Using a medium skin toned color like MAC's Charcoal Brown, brush over edge of darker eye shadow and blend up towards the brow. Highlight brow bone with a light colored pencil or shadow.


Hooded eyes have a layer of skin “falling” over the lids, which can make the lids seem smaller than they really are. To lift the eye visually, line eyes with a kohl pencil and diffuse edges with a smudge brush. Add a medium colored shadow over pencil and then blend outwards towards the outer corner of the eye. Avoid dark shadows in and above the crease.


Almond eyes are slightly upturned at the outer corners, but are otherwise symmetrical. Almond eyes are one of the most coveted eye shapes and rightly so, those blessed with this shape look good no matter how eye shadow is applied. To achieve one of the most classical eye looks, swipe a light colored shadow over the entire lid and under brow bone. Next, wash a medium skin toned shadow like MAC's Soba into the crease. Finally, apply a dark shadow in the outer corner of the eye in the shape of a “c.” Blend dark shadow well into crease and lid color.


Keep in mind, no matter how you apply your eye shadow, every eye shape can benefit greatly from a little brown or black eyeliner placed in the roots of the lash (a technique commonly referred to as tight line) and a couple of coats of mascara.

Having trouble deciding what eye shape you are? Don't hesitate to email me, call me or comment me with your eye shape questions! I will get back to you as soon as I can.